Upper Market Square in Wieliczka

On Wieliczka's Upper Market Square the paving suddenly seems to open up and miners climb out of the crevice. This is "Salt World", a three-dimensional painting covering 350 m² and regarded as the largest work of its kind in Poland. The square, with its medieval layout, the Przychocki Palace and small-town houses, is a few minutes' walk from the Daniłowicz Shaft, so it is easy to combine with a visit to the salt mine.

History: a square cut out in the 14th century

The square was laid out soon after Wieliczka received its town charter in 1290 and was originally larger than today. When the town was re-chartered in 1361 under King Casimir the Great, a square of about 75 m per side was carved out of its centre, and the former northern and southern parts were given over to houses. Eight streets lead off the square, two from each corner. The trade route from Kraków to Hungary ran across it.

A town hall once stood here; it was pulled down in 1784. Until the 1870s most buildings were wooden, until a fire destroyed them in 1877. Jewish families from nearby Klasno bought the burnt plots and put up brick houses of one or two storeys, most of which still stand. The square has been a listed monument since 1977.

What to see

• Przychocki Palace on the south side, the grandest building on the square. It was built in 1784 by the Wieliczka burghers Jan and Kazimierz Przychocki on the foundations of the old town hall. From 1818 it belonged to the salt mine and housed salt sales offices, later a grammar school. Today it is the seat of the county authority; during the 2017 renovation the façade with its double staircase was repainted yellow.
• A plaque on the palace façade marks the departure of a unit of Wieliczka miners and townspeople led by Edward Dembowski for Kraków on 24 February 1846, during the uprising of that year.
• "Salt World" 3D by Ryszard Paprocki, showing a rocky chasm with an underground mine. The artist worked in the bronze figures of four miners emerging onto wooden walkways, which already stood on the square, along with a mine cart.
• 19th-century houses around the square; in the evening the illuminated "Wieliczka" sign draws attention.

Good to know

The painting was made with techniques that withstand weather, foot traffic and vehicles, and the regional tourism portal VisitMałopolska says it is probably the second largest picture of its kind in the world. Przychocki Palace houses public offices, so on weekdays you can step inside; the stone remains in the cellars have been preserved and the wall paintings upstairs recreated.

Tripto tip

The square is a public space and free to visit at any time. 20–30 minutes is enough for the painting and the palace. The 3D illusion works best from one particular spot, so before taking a photo find the place from which the chasm looks deepest. Parking by the square is paid. From Kraków take the suburban train to Wieliczka Rynek-Kopalnia station or bus 304 to the Wieliczka Rynek stop.