Castles
Ostróda, Warmian-Masurian
For six weeks in 1807 this Teutonic Knights' castle was Napoleon's headquarters. From here he ran his empire and signed the decree creating the first battalions of a horse-drawn military train in history. Before that, the fortress on Lake Drwęckie saw a raid by the Lithuanian prince Kęstutis, surrender after the Battle of Grunwald and a great town fire. Burnt out in 1945, it was rebuilt and now houses the Ostróda Museum.
The Teutonic Knights chose a spot where the Drwęca river flowed into the lake in two arms, forming a natural island. First, probably after 1270, a timber manor with a palisade stood here, from around 1300 the seat of the Order's local official. When the Ostróda commandery was created in 1341, work began on a brick castle. Construction was led from the mid-14th century by Commander Günter von Hohenstein, until it was interrupted in 1381 by Kęstutis's raid.
The castle was a classic convent house: almost square, with sides of roughly 45 m, four wings, a chapel in the south wing and a gate with a drawbridge on the west. Unusually, it had no towers. As early as 1391, inventories listed cannon and a stock of stone balls. After the Battle of Grunwald in 1410 the garrison surrendered the castle to the Polish army, and some historians say the bodies of fallen leaders of the Order, including Grand Master Ulrich von Jungingen, briefly lay in its chapel. The Knights retook the castle that autumn.
After 1525 the castle became the seat of a district administration. From 1636 to 1639 it was run in person by the Silesian Duke John Christian of Brieg, who lived here with his court. In 1788 a fire in the town set off a gunpowder explosion in the east wing – that wing was demolished and the others were cut down to the first floor. From 21 February to 1 April 1807 Napoleon lodged in a room on the first floor of the north wing, followed by Marshal Davout. In 1945 the castle burnt down, and rebuilding began in 1974.
The museum occupies the Gothic ground floor with rib vaults, once used for storage and workshops. The rest of the castle houses a cultural centre, a gallery and a library.
According to the museum's price list, a standard ticket to the regional exhibitions costs PLN 22, reduced PLN 17, and a combined ticket including the torture exhibition PLN 33. Allow about an hour for the exhibitions. Check opening hours on the museum website before you go. The castle stands by the shore of Lake Drwęckie, so it pairs well with a walk along the promenade – and Ostróda is also a starting point for cruises on the Elbląg Canal.
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