Castles
Podzamcze, Silesian
After dark, the ruins of Ogrodzieniec Castle in Podzamcze turn into the Ogrodzieniec Fortress of Light (Ogrodzieniecka Twierdza Światła). Glowing halberdiers stand at the gates of the courtyard, a carriage with horses races across the outer bailey, and among the walls wait the White Lady and a black dog on a chain – figures from the legends that have surrounded this stronghold for centuries. Here the castle's story is told through light and sound, against the backdrop of the largest fortress in the Kraków-Częstochowa Jura.
The Fortress of Light opened to visitors on 4 November 2021; it is run jointly by the castle's operator and the Ogrodzieniec municipality. The illuminations are set out in the outer bailey and the main courtyard. Because the ruins are so monumental, the designers chose uniform colours and a play of warm and cool light rather than a multicoloured show. According to the castle's official website, the attraction lights up the walls with "a million lights" every weekend of the season.
The stone castle was built in the 14th century on the orders of King Casimir the Great, on the highest point of the Jura – Janowski Hill (515.5 m). In 1386 King Władysław Jagiełło granted it to the Włodek family of the Sulima coat of arms, and in 1530–1545 Seweryn Boner rebuilt the Gothic fortress into a Renaissance residence, nicknamed "little Wawel" for its splendour. After attacks by the troops of Maximilian of Habsburg in 1587 and by the Swedes in 1655, the castle was rebuilt by the magnate Stanisław Warszycki, who according to tradition punished wrongdoing cruelly. A fire started by the Swedes in 1702 began its decline; the last resident, Countess Zofia Mieroszewska, moved out in 1810.
In 1885 the ruins captivated the travel writer Aleksander Janowski, who later co-founded the Polish Sightseeing Society – the hill is named after him. The castle has also been a film set: scenes for the Polish classic "Janosik" (1973) were shot here, and in 2019 the Battle of Sodden for Netflix's "The Witcher".
Arrive just after dusk, while the sky is still deep blue – photos of the lit walls come out best then. Allow about an hour for the illuminated route. The ground in the ruins is uneven, so wear comfortable shoes and bring a torch or use your phone to light the way. The castle is open to visitors all year, but the dates, hours and ticket prices for the Fortress of Light change every season – check them on the castle's official website before you go. The red-marked Eagles' Nests Trail passes right by the ruins.
Check current information before visiting.
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