Nadodrze, Wrocław

Nadodrze is a district of tenement houses, workshops and painted courtyards just across the Oder, about 10 minutes' walk from the Market Square. In 1945 it suffered far less damage than the centre, so today it shows pre-war Wrocław in its everyday, residential form. Come for a walk through gateways and back courtyards, with a stop at one of the craft workshops.

History: the suburb that became the centre

The former Oder Suburb (German: Oder Vorstadt) was incorporated into the city in 1808, after the town fortifications were torn down. Most of the buildings you see today are tenements from around 1900. Because the northern districts were only lightly damaged during the siege of Festung Breslau, Nadodrze served as the temporary city centre in the first months after the war. In mid-April 1945 the Polish administrative group of Bolesław Drobner, Wrocław's first post-war mayor, arrived here – it set up base in three surviving buildings at today's ul. Poniatowskiego 25/27, where the Polish emblem and the white-and-red flag were hung on the very day of arrival. Soon the first bakery opened nearby, and canteens for city staff were set up at the corner of Jedności Narodowej and Poniatowskiego streets.

Nadodrze became a separate district, split off from Ołbin, in 1991. It also includes the Oder island of Kępa Mieszczańska, where as early as the 14th century the Kraków merchant Mikołaj Wierzynek financed the building of mills. In 2017 the district had around 25,000 residents.

What to see

• The colourful courtyards on ul. Roosevelta – the project began in 2013 with portraits of residents painted in a back building; from 2014 artists from the Courtyard Cultural Animation Centre (OKAP) – Mariusz Mikołajek, Witold Liszkowski and Jan Mikołajek – created it together with the neighbours. The first part, the Art Atelier Courtyard (2014–2015), covers about 1,200 m² of wall painting combined with ceramics: a garden of paradise with prehistoric creatures, mythical and fairy-tale figures. The second, Discovering Art Courtyard (2016–2017), references works by Van Gogh and Munch among others, with a corner of cats and dogs and portraits of local residents. Look out for the "Wrocław ocean", the niche of ceramic angels and the Courtyard Guest Book started in 2016.
• Wrocław Nadodrze station – a building from 1868 designed by Hermann Grapow, originally called the Oder Gate station; the first trains left from here for Oleśnica on 28 May 1868.
• Infopunkt Nadodrze at ul. Łokietka 5 – a hub for local culture and residents, and a good place to start your walk.
• Workshops, galleries and shops – the city ran a dedicated programme renting out premises to craftspeople and artists, plus the "Nadodrze Shop Windows" project in which designers created displays for local shops. Former laundries, dye works and distilleries have turned into studios and galleries; some offer workshops.

Did you know?

The painted courtyards are called "non-murals" because they combine painting, ceramics and sculpture, and their content was meant to reflect the emotions and dreams of the residents. The project eventually spread to Roosevelta, Jedności Narodowej and Słowiańska streets. The courtyard even has its own unofficial custodian, who keeps the guest book with entries from visitors from all over the world.

Tripto tips

Nadodrze is free to explore at any time; allow 1.5–2 hours for a walk including the courtyards. You enter the colourful courtyards through the gateway at ul. Roosevelta 5A; the nearest tram stop is Jedności Narodowej. Drivers can park on ul. Słowiańska or ul. Nowowiejska, or in the car park on ul. Dubois. Remember that the courtyards are residential – keep your voice down, do not enter stairwells and do not photograph people at their windows. Regional trains stop at Wrocław Nadodrze station, so you can start your walk straight from the platform.