Museums
Wiślica, Holy Cross
For half a century a shallow gypsum hollow 4.2 metres across was treated as proof that Christianity reached Wiślica almost a hundred years before the baptism of Poland's first ruler, Mieszko I, in 966. Today it is known as one of the most famous mistakes in Polish archaeology – which is exactly why it is worth seeing. The remains of the "basin" and of the Romanesque Church of St Nicholas are displayed by the Archaeological Museum in Wiślica, a branch of the National Museum in Kielce.
The remains were uncovered during excavations carried out between 1958 and 1965 on Batalionów Chłopskich Street by a medieval research team led by Zofia Wartołowska. The archaeologists found a basin made of crushed gypsum laid on a gypsum outcrop, with a clay platform on its north side and traces of burnt posts on both sides. Beyond the line of posts lay three graves cut into the rock. About two thirds of the basin survive, because the rest was destroyed by the foundation of the north wall of a later small church. According to measurements published in 1967 the basin was 28 cm deep, with a flat rim about 30 cm wide, and its outline resembled part of an octagon.
The remains were interpreted as a font for mass baptisms with a wooden housing, dated to the second half of the 9th century. This fitted the legend of a prince of the Vistulans being baptised in the Slavonic rite around 880, and a passage in the Life of St Methodius about the forced baptism of a pagan prince. Wiślica was therefore hailed as the oldest known place of baptism on Polish soil. Research in 2021 rejected the idea: the structure dates from the 11th century at the earliest, and its shape largely results from poorly conducted excavation of the site.
Next to the basin you can see the foundations of the small rectangular Church of St Nicholas, closed by an apse and built in opus spicatum, with stones laid in a herringbone pattern. Pottery finds date it to the late 11th or early 12th century at the earliest. A burial chapel was added to the church, and only women were buried in it – a rarity in the Middle Ages. The church was pulled down while still in the medieval period, when the town fortifications were built.
The remains are shown in the new archaeological pavilion on Plac Solny, from where an underground route of more than 150 metres leads beneath the collegiate basilica. There you will find a Romanesque floor engraved with praying figures from around 1175, and the tour ends in the Długosz House with its Gothic wall paintings. Visits are possible only with a guide or an audio guide, in groups of up to 25 people admitted every 30 minutes, and tickets can be booked online. The underground rooms are kept at about 18°C, so bring an extra layer even in summer. Allow about an hour for the whole route; current opening hours and prices are on the National Museum in Kielce website.
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