Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception in Koszalin

The oak figures of the apostles in the altar of Koszalin Cathedral were carved from wood felled in the winter of 1491–1492 in forests along the Vistula near Toruń – conservators established this through tree-ring dating. For a century and a half these same sculptures wandered around the church, and some even ended up in the attic. Today they stand in a new triptych in the chancel of a Gothic basilica with a 56-metre tower, Koszalin's most valuable historic building.

History of the cathedral

The church was built in 1300–1333 as a three-aisled brick basilica with a massive west tower. From 1534 to 1945 it was a Lutheran church – Koszalin, then the German town of Köslin, was part of Pomerania – and since 1972 it has been the cathedral of the Koszalin-Kołobrzeg diocese. In the mid-19th century the interior was "re-Gothicised": many valuable fittings were removed, including the Gothic high altar, which was replaced by a neo-Gothic one. In 1996 Bishop Czesław Domin, the diocese's second bishop, was buried in the porch. The building was thoroughly restored under a programme to renovate the medieval cathedrals of West Pomerania.

An altar back after 500 years

An altar stood in the chancel from around 1512, but its original appearance is unknown. When the last altar case fell apart in the mid-19th century, the figures were placed by the pulpit, by the font and finally stored in the attic. For the 500th anniversary of the altar's presumed consecration, conservators restored the sculptures' original colours and built a new case. The triptych was unveiled on the cathedral's patronal feast in 2012: it is almost 4.5 m high and 6 m wide with the wings open. In the centre stands the Virgin and Child between St John the Baptist and St John the Evangelist, the wings hold the 12 apostles, and the predella shows female saints.

What else to see

• The star vault with ribs of trefoil-shaped brick and six octagonal piers symbolising the apostles.
• The early Gothic font from the 13th century – a sixteen-sided stone bowl carved by sculptors from Gotland.
• A 14th-century Gothic crucifix, rescued from a fire in the chapel on Chełmska Hill in 1533; a vine winds around the cross.
• Chandeliers from 1666 and the painting "Resurrection" by August Friedrich Hauptner from 1845.
• The organ of 1899 by Schlag und Söhne, thoroughly restored in 2017–2019.
• The tower, 56 m high, with a six-sided gallery, a lantern and a clock from 1754.

Interesting facts

Only one of the cathedral's old bells survived – cast in 1529 for the chapel of St Nicholas. Its historic value saved it from being melted down in both world wars, and after 1945 it ended up in a church in Oldenburg, Lower Saxony. The present four bells were cast in 1979 at the Skubiszyński foundry in Poznań.

Tripto tip

The cathedral stands in the centre at ul. Bolesława Chrobrego 7 and is a working church – visit outside Mass times and do not take photos during services. Allow 30–45 minutes for the interior; start with the chancel, then find the font in the porch, which is easy to miss. The parish does not publish visiting hours or information on climbing the tower, so if in doubt call the parish office (+48 511 020 207). Afterwards, drive up Chełmska Hill, where the crucifix came from, and continue to Kołobrzeg with its Gothic St Mary's basilica.