Mountains & peaks
Zakopane, Lesser Poland
You can hardly miss it from the centre of Zakopane: the limestone massif of Giewont rises above the town in an almost vertical 600-metre wall, and for generations its outline has been compared to a sleeping knight. On Wielki Giewont (1,895 m) stands an iron cross from 1901, the goal of one of the most popular hikes in the Polish Tatras. This is a mountain that demands respect, though: the final stretch runs along chains, and in a thunderstorm the summit is one of the most dangerous places in the range.
The massif is 2.7 km long and has three summits: Wielki Giewont (1,895 m), Długi Giewont (1,868 m) and Mały Giewont (1,739 m). It lies in the Western Tatras, inside Tatra National Park, between the Strążyska, Mała Łąka, Kondratowa and Bystra valleys. In the 19th century it was called the "king of Zakopane" – in 1880 the painter Walery Eljasz-Radzikowski wrote that it could be seen from almost every cottage. One version of a well-known Polish legend says that knights sleep inside Giewont and will wake when Poland faces great danger; the walls of the massif are riddled with caves, and one of them is even called the Cave of the Sleeping Knights.
The idea came from Zakopane's parish priest, Father Kazimierz Kaszelewski, who wanted to mark the 1,900th anniversary of the birth of Christ. The cross is 17.5 m tall (2.5 m of it is anchored in the rock) and is made of around 400 iron parts produced by the Górecki factory in Kraków. The parts came by rail and horse cart to the Hala Kondratowa meadow, and from there local parishioners carried them to the top by hand – around five hundred people helped. Assembly took place from 3 to 9 July 1901, and the cross was consecrated on 19 August. Since 2007 it has been a listed monument.
Three popular routes lead to Wielki Giewont, all meeting near the Kondracka Pass:
The last section below the top is rocky, secured with chains and one-way: you go up on the right-hand side (seen from below) and come down the other. In season, in good weather, long queues form here.
Giewont is extremely dangerous in a thunderstorm. On 22 August 2019 lightning struck the summit dome: four people died, including two children, and more than a hundred were injured. A similar tragedy had already happened in 1937, during a pilgrimage to the cross. The second danger is the Kirkor Gully (Żleb Kirkora), which drops from the Giewont Pass – by 2003 more than 20 hikers had died there after leaving the trail to shorten their way down.
Allow 5–8 hours for the whole hike, including breaks. Start early: the chains are less crowded in the morning, and summer storms in the Tatras usually build up in the afternoon. If dark clouds gather, turn back before the chained section and never take shortcuts down. You need an entry ticket for Tatra National Park (sold at trailheads and online), and dogs are not allowed on the trails. The best view of the "sleeping knight" silhouette is from the Równia Krupowa meadow in central Zakopane.
Bilety sprzedają kasy przy wejściach do dolin (np. Kalatówki, Dolina Strążyska, Łysa Polana), czynne zwykle ok. 7:00–16:00, od 15 października do 15:00, w listopadzie i grudniu krócej – godziny zależą od miesiąca.
Bilet wstępu do TPN: normalny 11 zł, ulgowy 5,50 zł (7-dniowy 55/27,50 zł); bezpłatnie wchodzą dzieci do 7 lat i posiadacze Karty Dużej Rodziny.
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