Parish Church of the Assumption, Chełmno

Chełmno calls itself the town of lovers, and the reason lies in its parish church: the Gothic Church of the Assumption keeps relics of St Valentine. The church deserves a visit regardless of Valentine's Day. It is one of the most unified Gothic churches in Pomerania, a model for Königsberg Cathedral, with Gothic statues of the apostles and a viewing terrace on the tower.

History: quick construction and an unfinished tower

The church was probably built in 1280–1320 in two phases. First came the chancel and the north aisle, then the whole nave with the north tower. The south tower was never finished, so the west front, planned as symmetrical, has a single tower. Later centuries brought no rebuilding that would blur its Gothic character, only additional chapels: Our Lady of Sorrows (1560), Corpus Christi (late 17th century) and the south porch (1706).

It is the grandest of Chełmno's seven surviving churches, and the builders of Königsberg Cathedral used it as their model.

What to look for

• Statues of the apostles on the nave piers and the carved keystones of the vaults – Gothic sculpture of high quality.
• A painting of St Christopher from the late 14th century in a side aisle, partly covered by a later Baroque image of God.
• A Gotland stone font in late Romanesque style, made around 1350–1375.
• The Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, with an image crowned on 22 May 1754 with the consent of Pope Benedict XIV and silver votive plaques of the 17th–18th centuries.
• The Corpus Christi Chapel with carved furnishings from Elbląg, 1685–1695.
• The altar with the relics of St Valentine, restored in 2007–2008.
• Epitaphs from the 16th–18th centuries, including a coffin portrait of Marcin Kossenda from 1705.

Outside, notice the transverse gabled roofs over the side aisles, ending in triangular gables – a feature typical of the Teutonic Order's lands.

Did you know?

The Gothic stained glass from the east window of the chancel, made around 1370–1390, was moved to Malbork Castle in the 19th century and is now in the District Museum in Toruń. In 2012 a Renaissance tombstone showing two figures was uncovered beneath the floor of the nave.

Tripto tip

The church stands at the south-east corner of the market square, and many visitors start their tour of Chełmno here. Allow 30–45 minutes for the interior, longer if you climb to the viewing terrace on the tower, which overlooks the whole Old Town. The busiest time is around 14 February, when the town celebrates the patron saint of lovers. Check the opening times of the church and tower at the tourist information office in the town hall.