Landmarks
Grudziądz, Kuyavian-Pomeranian
From the Vistula, the granaries of Grudziądz look like a brick defensive wall: several storeys high, with small windows and massive buttresses. From the town side the very same buildings have only one or two floors – because they stand on a high escarpment where the medieval town walls once ran. The complex of 26 buildings forms one of the most recognisable panoramas on the lower Vistula and has been a Historic Monument of Poland since 2017.
After Grudziądz was granted town rights in 1291, the Teutonic Knights surrounded it with walls. On the river side, granaries were soon built against them – the first, Bornwald's Granary, in 1346–1351, and more around 1364. By 1504 there were 14 along today's Spichrzowa Street, mostly of brick, and a century later 16. The port at the foot of the escarpment made the grain trade easy, while the thick, steep walls with small openings protected against attackers and kept the slope from sliding.
When the town was retaken from the Swedes in 1659, most granaries burned down and only six survived. Rebuilding continued into the 18th century; the old wide plots were split into narrower ones, raising the number of buildings to about 30. In 1903 five burned down, and some were converted into flats with large windows and balconies. After the damage of 1945, the granaries were rebuilt between 1946 and 1966.
In 1603–1608 (or until 1618) one granary served as a Lutheran church after the Protestants lost their churches to the Catholics. 18th-century engravings show wooden chutes used to pour grain straight into boats at the quay. As early as the 16th century the poet Sebastian Klonowic wrote of "red Grudziądz" in his poem about Vistula rafting, "Flis" – a nod to the brick wall of granaries. One building is linked by a covered bridge across the street to the former Jesuit college, which now houses part of the town hall.
The complex can be viewed from outside at any time. The Museum of Vistula Trade is open from 1 May to 30 September Tuesday–Friday 10:00–16:00 and Saturday–Sunday 10:00–18:00, and from 1 October to 30 April Tuesday–Sunday 10:00–16:00; closed on Mondays. From May to September, entry to the exhibitions is free on Tuesdays.
For the best photo of the panorama, head to the bridge over the Vistula or the left bank, ideally in the afternoon when the sun lights up the brick walls. Then walk along the quay below the escarpment and return to the Old Town through the Water Gate or up the Słowacki Steps. A walk around the outside takes about an hour, two with the museum.
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