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Nowy Targ, Lesser Poland
Pensjonat Pstrąg in Łopuszna, on the road from Nowy Targ to Krościenko, is the place to go if you want fresh fish in the Podhale region rather than smoked sheep's cheese. The restaurant's speciality is trout from its own farm – the owners say the fish is never frozen. A stop here combines easily with a walk around Łopuszna, the village of the Tetmajer family and of the priest-philosopher Józef Tischner.
The restaurant stresses that it is the only one in Podhale serving fish from its own farm – the ponds, however, are not in Łopuszna itself but in Czarny Dunajec. Apart from trout, the menu may include carp, catfish and other freshwater fish, as well as Polish dishes and desserts. According to the guesthouse's website the restaurant is open daily from 10:00 to 22:00. The guesthouse also has a dozen or so rooms, a sauna and bike hire, and being right by the main road it is easy to find.
The village lies on the Dunajec river at the foot of the Gorce mountains, on regional road 969. At ul. Gorczańska 2 stands the Tetmajer manor of 1787–1790 – from 1824 to 1881 it belonged to Leon Przerwa-Tetmajer, and in 1832 the poet Seweryn Goszczyński hid here. Today it is a branch of the Tatra Museum. Next to it rises the wooden late Gothic Church of the Holy Trinity and St Anthony the Abbot, consecrated in 1504 and part of the Wooden Architecture Route. Łopuszna is closely linked with Father Józef Tischner – his grave is in the local cemetery, and "Tischnerówka" in the village centre houses a memorial room.
Allow about an hour for lunch and the same again for the manor and the wooden church. The opening hours come from the guesthouse's website, whose last update is unknown, so call before you go. Trails into the Gorce start in Łopuszna, so you can save the trout for after your hike.
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