Viewpoints
Trzęsacz, West Pomeranian
When the viewing platform in Trzęsacz opened in 2009, its tip reached a dozen or so metres beyond the shoreline – today, after the beach was widened with pumped sand, the beach extends further than the end of the structure. The white steel-and-concrete walkway, 36.6 m long, continues ul. Klifowa out over the cliff and gives a completely new view of the last wall of a medieval church that lost its centuries-long battle with the Baltic.
Previously a simple wooden stairway led down to the beach here; it was dismantled so that the ruins could be secured. The original plan foresaw a descent with a lift and a stage, but it was never built. The platform was constructed in 2006–2008 and opened in 2009. According to Rewal commune it stands 16.2 m above sea level, and open steel stairs lead from it down to the beach. In good weather the structure is visible from more than ten kilometres away, and from the top you can see the lighthouse at Niechorze and the wide beach towards Rewal.
The ruins belong to a church first mentioned in 1331, built in the middle of the village – usually said to be about 2 km from the sea, though sources disagree on the distance. The first protective works were ordered by a decree of the King of Prussia in 1772, after the sea had taken part of the churchyard. The last service was held on 2 March 1874, and at Easter 1901 the north wall collapsed into the sea. The last section of wall fell on 1 February 1994; since 2001 the cliff has been reinforced with a sand bank, a concrete collar on piles and gabions.
For years the ruins appeared in Polish geography textbooks as an example of the sea's power. The British marine painter Charles Pattison painted them, and a series of sketches and watercolours of the Trzęsacz ruins by Lyonel Feininger, made between 1928 and 1953, is held by MoMA in New York. The 15th meridian east, which defines Central European Time, runs through the spot where the last wall stands. An altar donated by the von Flemming family now adorns the neo-Gothic church in the village park.
The platform is on ul. Klifowa, a few steps from the ruins and the Multimedia Museum on the Cliff (ul. Klifowa 3b). Come in the evening if you can – the terrace is a popular spot for watching the sun set over the Baltic. Half an hour is enough for the platform and the ruins; with the museum and a beach walk, allow about two hours. Note that the way down to the beach is via open steel stairs; the lift included in the original plans was never built.
Free entry
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