Sleigh ride (kulig) in Zakopane

Horse-drawn sleighs, flaming torches in the dark and, at the end of the route, a bonfire, grilled sausages and highland music. The kulig is one of Poland's oldest winter pastimes, and in and around Zakopane plenty of local operators run them every season. Before you book, it helps to know what a kulig used to be and what to look out for today.

History: a nobles' party summoned with a stick

From the 16th century until the early 20th century, kuligs were a favourite entertainment of the magnates and gentry, usually held in the last week of carnival. The signal to gather was a crooked, ball-shaped stick called a "kula" sent round to the guests – most likely the origin of the name. The procession was led by a master of ceremonies known as the Harlequin, who planned the route from manor to manor. After the partitions of Poland the kulig took on a patriotic meaning: people danced the krakowiak, mazurka and polonaise, and anyone caught dancing a waltz or turning up in a tailcoat could be sent home.

What a kulig in the Tatra foothills looks like today

A modern kulig in the Podhale region is usually a sleigh ride across meadows and forest tracks, often in the evening by torchlight, ending at a bonfire or in a highland hut. Operators offer optional extras: roasting sausages over the fire, hot regional dishes and a live highland band. Routes run, among other places, around the Kościeliska and Chochołowska valleys and the slopes of Wierch Olczański and Wierch Poroniński, with views of the Tatras on a clear day. When there is no snow, many companies swap the sleighs for wheeled carriages – ask about this when you book.

Good to know

• Choosing an operator: there are many, and quality varies. Ask about the full price, insurance and how the horses are kept and worked.
• Booking: confirm your slot the day before, especially during the winter school holidays and in changeable weather.
• Getting there: some companies collect guests by bus from central Zakopane or from their guesthouse.
• Clothing: an open sleigh after dark is very cold – bring warm boots, gloves and chemical hand warmers.

Tripto tip

A short carriage or sleigh ride from Krupówki street is not the same as a full kulig with a bonfire. For a better taste of the tradition, choose an evening trip outside the town centre with a fire on a mountain meadow or at a shepherd's hut. Allow a few hours of the evening for the whole outing, including transfers.