St Elizabeth's Basilica (Garrison Church) in Wrocław

In the mid-15th century this church's tower, spire included, stood 130.5 m tall — the highest in Silesia and among the tallest structures in the world at the time. Today's tower, rebuilt after a series of fires, is 91.46 m high and the third-tallest building in Wrocław. St Elizabeth's Basilica, known as the Garrison Church, stands just off the north-west corner of the Market Square, and on a clear day its terrace offers a view all the way to Śnieżka, the highest peak of the Sudetes.

History: the patricians' parish church

The first church on the site, a Romanesque one dedicated to St Lawrence, probably existed by the early 13th century. In 1253 Duke Henry III gave it to the Knights of the Cross with the Red Star, and on 19 November 1257 it was consecrated to St Elizabeth. Work on the present three-aisled basilica began in 1309, and the chancel was completed in 1387. This was the parish church of Wrocław's patrician elite, built to rival the bishop's cathedral in size: the nave is 29.7 m high and the whole building 68.2 m long.

In 1525 the church became Protestant. According to a colourful but unconfirmed story, this happened after the patrician Heinrich von Rybisch won it in a game of dice against the master of the Knights of the Cross. The church came through the Second World War without major damage; afterwards the authorities took it from the Protestants and in November 1946 handed it to the army — hence the name "Garrison Church".

The tower that kept burning

In 1529 a gale brought down the tower's wooden spire. Catholic writers saw it as divine punishment of the Protestants, who replied that nobody had died in such a disaster — the debris crushed only a cat. In 1531–1535 the tower received a much smaller Renaissance cupola. The 20th century brought three fires: in 1960 lightning set the top of the tower alight, on 20 September 1975 the cupola and scaffolding burned, and on 9 June 1976 fire destroyed almost all the wooden furnishings, the roof structure and the famous Engler organ with 91 stops. Rebuilding began in 1981; the new cupola was made of reinforced concrete, and the roof regained its chequerboard pattern of glazed tiles first laid in 1598. The church reopened in May 1997, and on 31 May Pope John Paul II consecrated it.

What to see

• The viewing terrace at about 75 m, reached by more than 300 steps — with views over the Market Square and, on clear days, the Karkonosze (Giant Mountains) and Śnieżka.
• The 14th-century Smedchin Chapel, where pre-Reformation wall paintings were uncovered in 2004: the Crucifixion, St Christopher and St Hedwig.
• Around 370 epitaphs, including the tomb of Heinrich Rybisch and the 1545 epitaph of Nikolaus Uthmann with his three wives and 24 children.
• The tiny Jaś i Małgosia (Hansel and Gretel) houses at the entrance to the churchyard, and a monument to Dietrich Bonhoeffer, the anti-Nazi pastor born in Wrocław, a gift from the city of Berlin.

Tripto tip

According to the city portal wroclaw.pl, the terrace is open daily: from May to September 10:00–20:00, and from October to April from 10:00 until dusk; on Sundays and holidays it opens at 11:00. Last entry is half an hour before closing, and the tower may close in rain or thunderstorms. There is no lift, so allow about an hour for the climb up and down. The Heroes' Bell rings every day at 17:30, and on Sundays also at 11:30 — worth timing your visit to hear it. The church combines easily with a walk around the Market Square and Plac Solny.