Co-Cathedral Basilica of St James in Olsztyn

In the winter of 1807 the French locked about 1,500 prisoners of war inside St James's Church in Olsztyn, and to survive the frost they burned almost everything made of wood. That is why the interior of today's co-cathedral is plainer than its brick Gothic exterior suggests — but overhead awaits something special: crystal and net vaults from the end of the Middle Ages. It is Olsztyn's oldest church and the landmark of its Old Town.

History: a church built over two centuries

The parish was endowed in the town's founding charter of 1353, and construction began in the second half of the 14th century. Work proceeded in stages: first the walls of the nave and the three lower storeys of the tower, then the roof over the aisles, dated to after 1429, while the late Gothic vaults were completed before 1562. In 1596 the tower was raised to seven storeys, and in 1721 Piotr Olchowski of Reszel added side chapels next to it. The church is not oriented towards the east — tradition says its tower points towards Rome.

In 1864 the church was closed because it was in danger of collapse; after renovation in 1866–1868 it gained a neo-Gothic spire, with Ferdinand von Quast and August Stüler involved in the work. The golden star at the top dates back to 1596. In 1896 a fire destroyed the valuable high altar, while the church survived the Second World War without major damage. It became a pro-cathedral in 1945, a co-cathedral in 1973, and a minor basilica in 2004.

Polish sermons and famous visitors

Sermons were preached here in Polish since at least 1565, and in 1599 the parish priest Ambroży Merten asked to be relieved of his post because he did not speak his parishioners' language. Prince-bishops of Warmia Jan Dantyszek, Marcin Kromer and Ignacy Krasicki prayed here, as did King Władysław IV in 1635. From 1898 to 1900 the organist was Feliks Nowowiejski, composer of the patriotic hymn "Rota", and in 1979–1981 Bishop Józef Glemp ran the Diocese of Warmia from here.

What to see

• The vaults — net vaults in the nave and crystal vaults in the aisles; the ribs end in terracotta heads of kings, bishops and bearded men.
• A Gothic wall tabernacle with a grille and Renaissance painted decoration, and a late Gothic triptych.
• Baroque statues of the apostles Andrew and James the Greater and a larger-than-life crucifix.
• The neo-Gothic high altar from the 19th century and a stained-glass window of the Virgin holding a globe.
• The crypt of the bishops of Warmia, recreated after 2018 and intended for 12 bishops.

Did you know?

In spring 2014 a new bell called "Kopernik" (Copernicus), weighing 1,650 kg, was hung in the tower, with an inscription marking the Year of Nicolaus Copernicus 2013. In 2001 the church gained grand bronze main doors, and in 1991 it was visited by Pope John Paul II.

Tripto tips

The co-cathedral stands at ul. Staszica 12, a few minutes' walk from the castle and the market square. It is a working church, so visit outside services and keep quiet; 20–30 minutes is enough for the interior. The vaults are best seen during the day, in natural light. If you cannot come in person, the parish offers a virtual tour of the interior on its website.