Remuh Cemetery in Kraków

Behind the synagogue at 40 Szeroka Street lies one of the oldest surviving Jewish cemeteries in Europe. The Remuh Cemetery (also spelled Remah) has received the dead since 1551, and its oldest matzevah dates from 1552 — in Poland only Wrocław and Lublin have older Jewish gravestones. Pilgrims from all over the world still pray at the grave of Rabbi Moses Isserles, leaving pebbles and notes on it.

History: from the 16th century to the Wailing Wall

According to the historian Majer Bałaban, burials took place here from 1551; some sources date the founding as early as 1535. The cemetery covers about 0.75 ha. In 1800 the Austrian authorities closed it for sanitary reasons, like many old cemeteries in central Kraków, but occasional burials continued until the mid-19th century — the most recent surviving gravestone dates from 1850. After that, the dead were buried in the New Jewish Cemetery on Miodowa Street.

During the Second World War the Germans turned the site into a rubbish dump, tore down the wall and carted off matzevot, among other things as stone for paving roads. Only 10–20 gravestones survived, including the Remuh's grave. In 1959 archaeological work uncovered several hundred matzevot and some 700 steles and sarcophagi buried underground, which were set up again. Broken fragments were built into the wall along Szeroka Street to form a moving mosaic known as the Wailing Wall.

The Remuh's grave and others buried here

The most important grave is that of Moses Isserles (c. 1525–1572), known as the Remuh or Rema — a rabbi, Talmudist and philosopher whose glosses on the code of Jewish law still underpin Ashkenazi practice today. Legend has it that he buried a book on the spot of his future grave and a tree grew above it. Others buried here include:

• Nathan Spira (d. 1633), Kabbalist and head of the Kraków yeshiva,
• Joel Sirkis (d. 1641), rabbi of Kraków and authority on halakhic law,
• Yom-Tov Lipmann Heller (d. 1654), author of a famous commentary on the Mishnah,
• Izaak Jakubowicz (d. 1653), founder of the Izaak Synagogue,
• Samuel bar Meshullam (d. 1552), court physician to Kings Sigismund the Old and Sigismund Augustus.

Did you know?

The oldest part of the cemetery is thought to be today's small square at the northern end of Szeroka Street, in front of the synagogue. It was once surrounded by a high wall; today it has a low fence shaped like menorahs. A boulder on the square bears a plaque commemorating the 65,000 Kraków Jews murdered by the Germans. The Remuh Synagogue, through which you enter the cemetery, was founded by the rabbi's father, Israel ben Joseph — who is also buried here.

Tripto tips

According to the Jewish Community of Kraków, the cemetery is open Sunday to Friday: in the summer season 10:00–18:00, in winter 10:00–16:00. It is closed on Saturdays (Shabbat) and Jewish holidays, so check the holiday calendar when planning your visit. You enter through the courtyard of the Remuh Synagogue. 30–45 minutes is enough for an unhurried walk around. This is a place of worship and remembrance: men should cover their heads, do not touch or step on the matzevot, and keep quiet. It combines easily with the Old Synagogue and the rest of Szeroka Street.