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Białystok, Podlachia
Right next to Kościuszko Market Square, a stretch of pavement in Białystok turns into a guide to the history of Polish blues. The slabs of Blues Alley (Aleja Bluesa) carry the names of people who played, recorded and championed the genre – from Tadeusz Nalepa and Mira Kubasińska to Ryszard Riedel. On a piano keyboard set into the paving sings Miś Bluesman, a small bronze bear from the city's WidziMisie trail.
The alley opened in 2008, which Białystok declared its Year of the Blues. The timing was deliberate: it marked the 30th anniversary of the band Kasa Chorych and of the Jesień z Bluesem (Autumn with the Blues) festival, and the 25th anniversary of the death of local musician Ryszard "Skiba" Skibiński. Skibiński was the man behind Jesień z Bluesem, a festival running since 1978 and regarded as the oldest event of its kind in Poland. According to the city, the alley was meant to remind younger generations of what the great blues musicians achieved.
Those honoured include Jan Chojnacki, Cezary Czternastek, Irek Dudek, Martyna Jakubowicz, Józef Skrzek, Sławek Wierzcholski, Leszek Winder and Ada Rusowicz. The alley keeps growing: at one ceremony six new plaques were unveiled at once, among them Białystok harmonica player Tomasz Kamiński, guitarist Grzegorz Kapołka and the late Wojciech Skowroński. New names usually appear during concerts organised by the Białystok Cultural Centre (BOK), for instance on Polish Blues Day.
Białystok WidziMisie is a trail of 25 bronze bear cubs placed around the city, each one linked to its location. Miś Bluesman – mouth open in song, hat on his head – has his address right on Blues Alley. A little further on, the paving is laid in stripes resembling piano keys, the light and dark slabs creating the rhythm of an instrument.
The alley is public space, so it is free and open at any time. 10–15 minutes is enough to read the plaques and take a photo with the bear, so treat it as a stop on a walk around Kościuszko Market Square and the centre. Look for Ryszard Skibiński's plaque – the city's blues tradition began with him. If you come in autumn, check the Jesień z Bluesem programme at the Białystok Cultural Centre.
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