Tenczyn Castle

In 1655, with the Swedes invading, Grand Marshal Jerzy Lubomirski hid the Polish crown treasury in the Spiš region — and deliberately spread a rumour that it had been taken to Tenczyn. The Swedes fell for it: they besieged the castle, massacred the garrison after it surrendered, and when they found no treasure, set the fortress on fire in July 1656. Today the ruins of the powerful Tęczyński family's seat stand on top of a former volcanic cone, 24 km west of Kraków.

History: a magnates' castle

The area is first recorded on 24 September 1308, when King Władysław the Elbow-High issued a document "in Thanczin". Around 1319 the castellan of Kraków, Nawój of Morawica, built the first, wooden castle and its tallest tower, still known as Nawój's Tower. The masonry castle was raised in 1331–1361 by his son Andrzej, voivode of Kraków and Sandomierz — the first to take the surname Tęczyński. The family's power grew quickly, and it came to own 45 villages and towns. King Władysław Jagiełło held important Teutonic Knight prisoners from the Battle of Grunwald here, the chronicler Jan Długosz lived at the castle for almost a year in 1461, and in the 16th century the Renaissance poets Mikołaj Rej and Jan and Piotr Kochanowski were frequent guests.

In 1579–1593 Jan Tęczyński rebuilt the castle in Renaissance style: three wings opening to the west gained attics, cornices and arcaded galleries, and the whole complex was ringed by walls with a barbican and two pentagonal bastions. Gardens and vineyards spread below the castle. The last male Tęczyński, Jan Magnus, died in 1637. After the Swedish invasion the castle was partly rebuilt, but a fire caused by lightning in 1768 left it in ruins.

A ruin saved at the last minute

In the early 21st century the ruins were crumbling amid disputes between public authorities. In 2008 the "Save Tenczyn" association was founded, in 2009 the castle was closed because of its poor condition, and since 2010 the municipality of Krzeszowice has carried out stabilisation work. In July 2016, after an agreement between the municipality and the heirs of Count Adam Potocki, the ruins reopened to visitors.

What to see — and the legends

• Nawój's Tower — the gate tower with its forebuilding, the tallest on the castle.
• The "Dorotka" tower, where, according to legend, one of the Tęczyńskis walled up his unfaithful wife alive; her moans are said to be heard to this day.
• Remains of the Renaissance galleries, the barbican and the bastions, including the Grunwald Bastion.
• The sycamore maple in the courtyard, a protected natural monument since 15 April 1936.

Another legend tells of treasure in the deepest dungeons beneath the chapel, guarded by devils in the shape of huge dogs. The ruins have appeared in the film "Ostrze na ostrze" and in the TV series "Czarne chmury", "Rycerze i rabusie" and Netflix's "Barbarians".

Tripto tip

The castle lies in the village of Rudno, 5 km south-west of Krzeszowice and a kilometre from the A4 motorway. Visits are run by the New Era Art Foundation and there is an admission charge — check current opening times and prices with the foundation before you go, as they change with the season and during events. Allow about an hour for the ruins. Castle Hill (398 m above sea level) is the highest point of the Tenczyn Ridge, and the trip pairs well with the Discalced Carmelite monastery at Czerna, founded by Agnieszka Firlejowa, née Tęczyńska.