Panewniki Nativity Scene

Every December the high altar and side aisles of the neo-Romanesque Franciscan basilica in Katowice-Panewniki disappear behind a Bethlehem landscape measuring 18 m high, 32 m wide and 10 m deep. The Panewniki crib is regarded as Europe's largest altar nativity scene built inside a church, and the tradition is almost as old as the church itself. Over the Christmas season it draws crowds from all over Silesia.

From a simple crib to a triptych

Depending on the source, the crib dates back to 1908 or 1913 – the church was consecrated in July 1908. The first builder was Brother Ubald Miera, and the earliest cribs, still without a backdrop, stood on the right-hand side of the church. In 1926 a curtain painted with a view of Jerusalem was added; in the 1930s the scene moved to the left side, and in 1933 the daytime sky was replaced with a starry night. Since 1947 the crib has occupied the high altar, and in 1981 an original figure of the Christ Child from Bethlehem was brought here.

After Brother Ubald the work was led by Brother Fabian Frytz and Franciszek Falkus. Since 1996 the chief builder has been the sculptor and folk artist Paweł Jałowiczor from Jaworzynka, who carves new figures, recreates damaged ones and restores the older pieces. Putting the whole scene together takes about 15 days.

What to see

The crib takes the form of a triptych. The central part with the Holy Family changes little; the tabernacle stands behind the figure of the Child. The left wing usually shows a scene from the life of St Francis of Assisi, while the right wing refers to current events in the life of the Church, the parish, the region or the country – so each year it is worth seeing which theme the Franciscans have chosen.

Around 120 figures are used – carved in wood, cast in plaster or made of resin – the largest 150 cm tall. According to oral tradition, the oldest, a shepherd boy and a woman with a jug, are more than a hundred years old. Stuffed animals, windmills, a watermill, a well, a mine shaft, little houses and campfires complete the scenery, all lit by hundreds of bulbs. Look out for the Silesian touches: a colliery shaft in Bethlehem is the builders' local signature.

Did you know?

• The tradition of nativity scenes goes back to the order's founder, St Francis, who set up a crib in a cave at Greccio in 1223 – hence the Franciscans' devotion to the Panewniki crib.
• According to the chronicle, some 80,000 faithful attended the consecration of the church in 1908, and more than 50 special trains ran to Ligota station.
• During the Christmas season the monastery grounds also host a living nativity with animals and a mechanical crib.

Tripto tip

The crib is unveiled for Midnight Mass and can be seen for several weeks over the Christmas season. This is a working church, so visit outside Mass times; weekdays are usually calmer than weekends and the first days of the holidays. Allow 45–60 minutes for the crib in the basilica and the living nativity. The basilica stands on Panewnicka Street, on the boundary between Ligota and Panewniki; next to it lies the Panewniki Calvary with a copy of the Lourdes Grotto dating from 1905.