Lakes
Łeba, Pomeranian
Lake Łebsko ("WEP-sko") is the largest lake in Pomerania and the third largest in Poland, a shallow, wind-whipped expanse of water just behind the famous moving dunes of Słowiński National Park, between the resort of Łeba and the village of Kluki. With more than 70 km² of open water, wide reed beds and dunes spilling into it from the north, it is best admired from above – from the Łącka Dune, the Czołpino lighthouse or a jetty at Kluki.
The Łeba River runs through the lake and enters the Baltic at Łeba. The national park explains that the lake surface lies only 9 cm higher than the sea, so during storms seawater pushes back into the lake. Salinity can then reach about 3 parts per thousand, which is why marine fish such as herring and flounder turn up alongside freshwater species, and salt-tolerant plants grow on the eastern shore. The lake is slowly shrinking as dune sand blows in from the north and the river deposits silt.
Older guidebooks mention passenger boats from Łeba to Rąbka and Kluki. According to the national park, passenger boats on Lake Łebsko are currently not operating pending a tender (as of October 2026). Fishing from boats is allowed in designated zones under park rules and fees. Kayakers should be aware that sudden strong winds raise steep waves on the shallow water.
Before 1945 the lake lay in German Pomerania and was known as the Lebasee. In 1776 the Prussian official Franz Balthasar von Brenkenhoff had a canal cut through the spit to lower the lake and drain the surrounding marshes. It backfired: storms drove seawater through the canal and flooded the area, a storm in 1779 wrecked the structure, and the canal was closed again in 1782–83. The episode shows how delicate the balance between lake and sea still is.
Wildlife
The lake and surrounding marshes are an internationally recognized bird area; white-tailed eagles hunt here, and the reed beds shelter many waterbirds. Bring binoculars, especially in spring and fall migration.
Łeba, on the lake's eastern edge, is about 110 km (around two hours by car) west of Gdańsk; trains run to nearby Lębork, with buses or summer trains on to Łeba. The western shore is reached via Smołdzino and Kluki. Viewpoints are open year-round; from May 1 to September 30 the national park trail fee is 10 PLN.
Is it worth visiting?
Yes, as part of a visit to the dunes and the national park – Lake Łebsko is the backdrop that makes the dune views so memorable.
Jezioro i punkty widokowe dostępne cały rok; rejsy pasażerskie obecnie nie kursują (SPN, październik 2026).
Wstęp wolny poza sezonem; 1.05–30.09 na szlakach SPN bilet 10 zł / 5 zł.
Słowiński Park Narodowy, gm. Wicko / Smołdzino (dostęp z Łeby, Rąbki i Kluk)
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Checked: October 2026
Photos