Łeba Beach

The beach at Łeba ("WEH-bah") is a broad ribbon of pale, fine sand on both sides of the harbor of this small resort on Poland's central Baltic coast, often counted among Poland's finest. To the west it turns into the wild shore of Słowiński National Park, where you can walk along the waterline to the famous moving dunes; to the east it runs past the town and the forest. In summer it is a classic lifeguarded swimming beach; off-season it is all big skies and storm-watching.

Where it is

Łeba sits at the mouth of the Łeba River, about 110 km (around two hours by car) west of Gdańsk. The harbor and its breakwaters split the shore in two. In summer the town runs three designated swimming areas – Beach A, the central one east of the harbor by the Neptun Hotel; Beach B, west of the harbor toward the national park; and Beach C, further east – and publishes water quality updates for each. Exact boundaries and lifeguard hours are set every year.

Things to see

• The breakwaters and harbor entrance – great at sunset.
• The Neptun Hotel, a former spa house from 1903 shaped like a small Art Nouveau castle.
• The national park shoreline west of Beach B. According to the park, walking to designated beach areas inside the park and staying on the beach is free of the entry fee.

Walking to the Łącka Dune along the shore

The national park's loop trail from Old Łeba follows the beach west to the Łącka Dune and returns through the forest – roughly three hours of walking. There are no facilities on the park beach, so bring water.

Safety

Swim only at guarded areas and stay away from the harbor and river mouth. The local water rescue (WOPR) number is 601 100 100. Baltic water can be cold even in July – don't plunge in when overheated.

Visiting in fall and winter

Outside the summer season the beach is unguarded but open year-round and free. Autumn and winter storms reshape the shore and waves can reach the foot of the dunes; only attempt the long beach walk to the dunes in calm weather.

How to get there

Fly into Gdańsk (GDN). Trains run to Lębork year-round, with buses on to Łeba; direct trains to Łeba run mainly in summer. Prices are in Polish złoty (PLN). The tourist information office is at ul. Kościuszki 121 (phone +48 504 247 615).

A short history of the shoreline

The sea has shaped Łeba for centuries. The medieval town stood on the west bank of the river; after a violent storm in January 1558 and further storms in the following years, residents moved the town east of the river mouth. All that remains of old Łeba is a fragment of the wall of St. Nicholas Church, now the starting point of the dune trail. Seaside visitors began arriving in the mid-19th century, and the Neptun spa house followed in 1903.

Is it worth visiting?

Yes – especially if you combine a beach day with a walk to the dunes of Słowiński National Park.