St Peter's Hill in Pilica

Before the town was moved to a more convenient site in the 14th century, Pilica stood right here, on a small hill above the river now called St Peter's Hill and known as the cradle of Pilica. Some 800 years ago this was the site of the first town, known as Old Pilica, and of its first church. Of the last church, which burned down in January 1945, a wooden bell tower, a masonry sacristy, the churchyard wall and the gravestones of the old cemetery survive in the shade of ancient trees.

The history of the hill

Pilica is one of the oldest settlements in this part of the Jura: it is first mentioned in the early 13th century, and tradition holds that an early urban centre existed here as early as the 11th century. It grew thanks to its position on the route from Kraków to Kalisz and on into Greater Poland. The first church was built on the hill and served as the town's parish church until the early 15th century. This wooden building lasted until the 16th century, when it fell apart with age, and a new one, also of timber, soon replaced it. At the end of the 17th century a masonry sacristy was added, and a bell tower was built into the line of the churchyard wall. Between the wars the feast of the patrons, Saints Peter and Paul, was still celebrated here. The church burned down in January 1945 during fierce fighting between German and Soviet forces. A plaque on the hill cites the traditional date of 1066 and the 950th anniversary celebrated in 2016 – treat it as local tradition rather than proven fact.

What to see

• The wooden bell tower, a post-frame structure with a lantern on top, built into the line of the wall.
• The masonry sacristy from the end of the 17th century – the only stone-built part of the former church.
• The 18th-century churchyard wall in its original form.
• Gravestones of the old cemetery that surrounded the church; the oldest dates from 1852.
• The Jura panorama – the hill gives all-round views over large stretches of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland.

Nearby

In Pilica itself, look at the palace and park complex with its surviving bastion fortifications – the palace and park are private and closed to visitors, but you can see the bastions from outside. Add the Pilica collegiate church, the small hospital church of St George on ul. Krakowska, the Reformati friary in Biskupice and the church ruins in Zarzecze. About 3 km south stand the ruins of Pilcza Castle in Smoleń, on the red Eagles' Nests Trail and the blue Jurassic Strongholds Trail.

Tripto tip

The hill is on the eastern edge of Pilica, above the river valley, and is free to visit all year. You have to walk up, so leave the car in town. About 30 minutes is enough; after rain, wear sturdy shoes. This is a former cemetery and a place of remembrance, so please be respectful and do not climb on the graves. Pilica lies about 20 km east of Zawiercie; combine the hill with a stroll around town and a trip to Smoleń.