Hiking & tourist trails
Kościelisko, Lesser Poland
The Czerwone Wierchy ("Red Peaks", roughly "cher-VO-neh VYEH-rkhih") are the most popular ridge walk in the Western Tatras, a chain of four summits linked by a red-marked trail with views reaching the High Tatras. The summits are Ciemniak (2,096 m), Krzesanica (2,122 m), Małołączniak (2,096 m) and Kopa Kondracka (2,005 m). The route has no technical difficulties, so it is a good first big mountain day, but the ridge can be dangerous in bad weather and in winter. A top pick for hikers near Zakopane.
The Czerwone Wierchy sit on the main ridge of the Western Tatras, on the Polish-Slovak border (Červené vrchy in Slovak). The summits are separated by passes: Mułowa (2,067 m), Litworowa (2,037 m) and Małołącka (1,924 m). The massif is mostly sedimentary rock, Middle Triassic limestone and dolomite, topped with crystalline rock. Glacial cirques lie below the summits, and many caves hide in the rock, among them the largest in the Tatras, such as Wielka Śnieżna, Śnieżna Studnia and Miętusia.
The name probably comes from the rusty-brown slopes, coloured in summer and autumn by a rush plant or a brown moss. The rare Hungarian aster also grows here and in Poland it occurs only in the Tatras.
Ludwik Zejszner first measured the summits with a barometer in 1838 and described the massif's geology. Mariusz Zaruski began cave exploration in 1912, descending 45 m into Rozpadła Cave. The massif was once grazed almost to the summits: the Polish slopes belonged to the Mała Łąka, Miętusia and Upłaz pastures. In summer the ridge poses no major technical difficulties, so Eugeniusz Janota recommended it to beginners and people with limited fitness.
The ridge has several approaches:
The classic loop starts at the car park in Kiry, climbs Ciemniak, follows the ridge over Krzesanica and Małołączniak to Kopa Kondracka and descends through the Mała Łąka Valley. A 2018 trip report gives about 17.5 km, about 9 hours and about 1,500 m of climbing, so start early. The trail is slightly exposed near Krzesanica.
The slopes often end in steep cliffs, and straying from the path in fog can be fatal. Go only in good weather, check the forecast and the Tatra National Park (TPN) notice. The notice of 10 October 2026 warns that above about 2,000 m hard frozen snow and ice remain, and that light traction aids are no substitute for crampons: you need winter gear. The route from Wielka Polana Małołącka via Przełęcz w Grzybowcu to Wyżnia Kondracka Pass is under repair. The green trail through Czerwony Żleb is closed in winter because of avalanches. From 1 March to 30 November you may not walk the trails from dusk to dawn.
Entry to the park costs 11 PLN (standard), 5.50 PLN (reduced) or 55 PLN for a 7-day ticket; children under 7 enter free. Buy online at tpn.gov.pl, at the entrance or by QR code. Helpline: +48 885 989 427 (daily 7:00 to 13:00 except holidays). We found no information on English-language signage on the trails.
Kiry, the entrance to the Kościeliska Valley, is reached from Zakopane by minibus or car. There is paid parking before the entrance, and cars and bicycles are not allowed into the valley. Zakopane is about 100 km south of Kraków, the nearest major airport. You can also reach the ridge from Kuźnice via Kasprowy Wierch.
Combine the walk with the Kościeliska and Chochołowska valleys, and look for Giewont, visible from Kopa Kondracka.
Szlaki całoroczne (zimą bardzo trudne i niebezpieczne); od 1 marca do 30 listopada zakaz poruszania się po szlakach od zmierzchu do świtu.
Bilet wstępu do TPN: 11 zł normalny, 5,50 zł ulgowy, 55 zł tygodniowy (27,50 zł ulgowy); dzieci do 7 lat bez opłaty; psy zakazane.
Start: parking TPN Kiry, wejście do Doliny Kościeliskiej (Kościelisko)
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Checked: October 2026