Basilica of St James and St Agnes in Nysa

In 1619 a census of parishioners decided whether the church would stay Catholic or pass to the Protestants – the Catholics won by just three people. The Basilica of St James and St Agnes in Nysa, which locals have called the "cathedral" for centuries, is one of the largest Gothic churches in Silesia: its roof covers about 4,000 m² and is among the steepest in Europe, and its hall interior rests on 27-metre pillars. Since 2011 it has been a Monument of History, Poland's highest heritage status.

A church of bishops and burghers

The first stone, Romanesque church here was consecrated in 1198 by Bishop Jarosław of Wrocław; it was destroyed by the Mongols in 1241, and its foundations were discovered beneath the floor after the 1938 flood. Work on the present church was begun by Bishop Wacław, who wanted a showpiece church for the Duchy of Nysa, but the chancel burned in the town fire of 1401. In 1424–1430 the town council took over the rebuilding and entrusted it to Peter of Ząbkowice (Peter Frankenstein). His hall church, with three aisles of equal height, is often compared with Gniezno Cathedral. For over a century and a half, when the bishops of Wrocław lived in Nysa, it served as their main church – hence the nickname "cathedral".

Fires, a miracle and rebuilding

The church burned and was rebuilt many times. According to local tradition, in July 1642, when the retreating Swedes set the town on fire, the townspeople's prayers to St James brought a sudden downpour that put out the flames, and devotion to the patron grew stronger from then on. The worst disaster came on 21 March 1945: the roof, the Baroque organ and several chapels burned and the west gable collapsed. Rebuilding began in earnest in 1957, with a new steel roof structure to reduce the risk of fire. Cardinal Stefan Wyszyński rededicated the church on 15 August 1959, and in 2009 it was made a minor basilica.

What to see

• Tombs of eight bishops of Wrocław and mausoleum chapels of, among others, Jakob von Salza, Martin Gerstmann and Balthasar von Promnitz.
• A ring of 16 Gothic chapels and two Baroque ones: the Holy Trinity Chapel with a dome painted by Felix Anton Scheffler (1753) and the Blessed Sacrament Chapel of 1679.
• The Passion Altar – a late Gothic–Renaissance triptych from the early 16th century, the only survivor of the church's 43 former altars.
• "The Martyrdom of St Bartholomew" by Michael Willmann (1706) and a 14th-century Gothic Madonna and Child.
• 24 pillars – each divided by 12 stone bands with 12 courses of brick between them, a reference to the twelve apostles, one of whom was the patron, St James.
• The bell tower of 1474–1516 – planned as a tower 100–120 m tall, it stopped at four storeys. Since 2005 it has housed the Treasury of St James with work by Nysa goldsmiths.

Tripto tip

The basilica stands on plac Katedralny, right next to the Market Square. Admission to the church is free and you can look around outside Mass times; allow about an hour for the interior, or an hour and a half with the treasury in the bell tower. Check opening times for the treasury, the crypt and guided tours at the Nysa tourist information point before you go. The best photo of the basilica and bell tower is from the square to the west. Combine your visit with the Market Square, the Town Weigh House and the Triton Fountain.