Rycerzowa PTTK Mountain Hut (Bacówka na Rycerzowej)

Poland's first PTTK "bacówka" – a small mountain hut – was supposed to be flown up to the meadow in one piece by helicopter from the village of Soblówka. That proved technically impossible, so the wooden hut was built on site on Hala Rycerzowa at 1,120 m above sea level. Opened on 14 September 1975, the Rycerzowa hut is still off the electricity grid – but from its dining-room windows you can see the Tatras.

History: the first of the bacówkas

The Bielsko branch of the Polish Tatra Society was already planning a hut on Rycerzowa in 1939, but the war put an end to that. The present building was designed by Stanisław Karpiel of Zakopane. It was the first in a series of small huts built by the PTTK (Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Society) on the initiative of Edward Moskała – intimate places for independent hikers, with simple facilities, no advance bookings and no organised groups. Later huts on the same design include those on Krawców Wierch, Jaworzec and Maciejowa.

The beginnings were hard. The first warden, Rafał Sanetra, recalled that on opening day there was no heating and no proper water supply. Water came through a hose from the nearest spring – until, in a single moonless night, at least 200 metres of hose disappeared. On top of that came an exceptionally frosty and snowy winter in 1975/1976. In 2012 the shingle roof was replaced with metal roofing and the façade was renovated.

What you'll find

• 34 beds in rooms for 2, 3, 5 and 10 people; when the beds are full, there are benches and the dining-room floor,
• a dining room with a fireplace and a view of the Tatras from the south-facing windows,
• a buffet with hot meals, including vegetarian options; the house speciality is pancakes with blueberry sauce,
• a self-catering corner, showers and space for tents around the hut,
• snowshoe rental in winter.

Power comes from a generator plus solar panels and batteries. From around the meadow you can see the Lipowska and Rysianka ranges, Pilsko, Babia Góra and the Tatras, and on the Slovak side the Low Tatras and the Malá Fatra.

Trails and access

There is no road access for cars. The quickest way up is from Soblówka – park by the church – on the black or yellow trail in 1.5–2 hours. Other options: from Soblówka on the green trail via Przysłop (about 2.5 h), from Ujsoły via Muńcuł (about 3 h), from Rycerka on the red trail via Mładá Hora (about 4 h), and from Zwardoń via Wielka Racza (about 10 h). In winter the easiest route is the black trail from Soblówka, which is often packed down by a snowmobile.

Practical information

The buffet is usually open 8:00–20:00, with hot meals until 19:00. The hut has a card terminal, but mobile signal is unreliable, so bring cash. Dogs are not allowed to stay overnight inside the building; with a dog you can pitch your own tent. Current accommodation prices are listed on the hut's website and on site.

Tripto tip

If you are arriving late in the evening or in winter, phone ahead – the staff can tell you about snow conditions on the trail. For sunrise or sunset, walk a few minutes up the meadow above the hut – that is where the panorama opens up.